We cultivate many organic  papaya trees around the grounds of both Gecko Villa and Green Gecko. In Isan, we tend to regard the fruit as a vegetable - using it as a main ingredient whilst hard and green rather than as a fruit when its flesh has sweetened and softened into reds or yellows.

The papaya plant grows rapidly. Whilst the bark and stem may be used to produce rope, the fruit is best known for its wide range of uses and inherent health benefits.

Both the green fruit and the latex in the papaya tree are rich in papain, an enzyme useful in tenderizing meat (and often used in manufactured meat tenderizers.) Papain (often produced by fermenting the flesh of the papaya) is also used as a topical application to treat cuts, rashes, stings and burns. The fruit also has a relatively high amount of pectin, which can be used to make jams.

Papayas contain high levels of folates and antioxidants, including vitamins C, E and A. These help prevent the oxidation of cholesterol, and are thus believed to be valuable in preventing atherosclerosis, stokes and heart attacks. Diets high in papaya have been proven to reduce the risk of prostate cancer by 82%, as a result of their richness in lycopenes. Juice form the leaves of the tree can increase platelet counts.

Black seeds nestle in the centre of the fruit in a hollow chamber, and are generally discarded, although they are in fact edible, with a sharp, spicy taste. They may be dried and ground and then be deployed as a substitute for black pepper.

The spicy Green Papaya Salad known as Som Tam is considered the flagship dish of the Northeast - even if it has been hijacked, sweetened and dulled down in scovilles by the central Thais in their "Som Tam Thai".  The wafting aromas of Som Tam are distinctive and seductive, marrying sour, bitter, sweet and salty notes to a dish that weds crunch with softness. The "pok-pok" sound of pestle and mortar, and the aroma concocted by the rhythmic pounding and scraping of the ingredients, creates a symphony of taste that far exceeds  its individual notes - principally shredded green papaya, cherry tomatoes, long beans, chilies, garlic  and lime juice palm sugar and fish sauce (or, specifically in Isan, fermented fish or rice paddy crab.)

So venture up the Northeast of Thailand and enjoy a freshly prepared Som Tam with some sticky rice. Juicy, spicy, healthy, fresh and crunchy, it makes a perfect summer dish beside the gurgling pool.